Guadalajara is the beating heart of Mexican football. Four World Cup matches at Estadio Akron, the home of Chivas, one of Mexico's two great clubs. Tequila country on the doorstep, some of the best food in the country, and fans who treat football as a religion. This is the host city for supporters who want the real Mexico.

Estadio Akron: a volcano on the edge of the city

Estadio Akron sits in Zapopan, on the north-west edge of Guadalajara, and its design — a low, sweeping bowl that looks like a volcano — is one of the most distinctive in the tournament. It holds around 46,000 fans and is famous for its atmosphere: Chivas supporters are among the loudest in Mexico, and the stadium's bowl shape traps the noise. Getting there is by rideshare or bus from the centre, about 20 minutes. The Andares shopping district nearby is the best pre-match meeting point, with restaurants and bars.

Tequila country: the day trip every fan should take

Guadalajara is the capital of tequila, and the town of Tequila itself is an hour away. Take the Tequila Express train or a guided tour to a working distillery, walk the blue agave fields, and taste tequila the way it is meant to be drunk — slowly, and with respect. It is the single best non-football experience in any Mexican host city, and an ideal rest day between matches. Book tours early: they sell out during the tournament.

The food: birria, tortas ahogadas and the best tacos in Mexico

Guadalajara invented birria, the slow-cooked beef stew that has conquered the world, and the torta ahogada, a pork sandwich drowned in spicy tomato sauce. The Mercado San Juan de Dios, one of the largest covered markets in Latin America, is a maze of food stalls where a full meal costs a few dollars. For match days, the area around Estadio Akron fills with taco stands and beer vendors, and the atmosphere is pure Mexican football: loud, colourful and welcoming.

Where to stay: Andares, Chapalita or the historic centre

The smartest base is the Andares district in Zapopan, close to the stadium — the Hyatt Regency Andares is the upscale pick, and rideshare to Estadio Akron takes under ten minutes. For more character, stay in Chapalita or Lafayette, with boutique hotels like the Demetria, about 20 minutes from the stadium by rideshare. The historic centre is cheaper and livelier at night, with colonial squares, mariachi bands and late-night cantinas.

The football culture: Chivas and the Clásico Tapatío

Guadalajara is a one-club city for Chivas, the team that fields only Mexican players, and the rivalry with Atlas — the Clásico Tapatío — is one of the fiercest in the country. During the World Cup, that passion will be on full display: expect flags, drums, face paint and whole neighbourhoods turned into street parties. Even if your team is not playing in Guadalajara, the city itself is worth the trip for the football culture alone.

Frequently asked questions

Day trips from Guadalajara: Chapala and the agave fields

If you have a rest day, take a trip to Lake Chapala, Mexico's largest lake, an hour south of the city — a peaceful contrast to the noise of the tournament, with lakeside restaurants and a large expat community. Or head into the agave fields around Tequila for a full-day distillery tour. Both are easy day trips by bus or organised tour, and both show a side of Jalisco that most visitors never see. Guadalajara rewards fans who look beyond the stadium.

How many matches does Guadalajara host? Four, at Estadio Akron. How do I get to the stadium? Rideshare or bus from the centre, about 20 minutes. Where should I stay? Andares near the stadium, or Chapalita for character. What is the altitude? Around 1,560 metres — drink water and take it easy on day one. What should I eat? Birria, tortas ahogadas and tacos al pastor.